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Tea gets more interesting with roasting.

Measuring roasting conditions with household equipment

Chapter 4 · 2 of 5 sections readable now

An illustration of a generic tea roaster with a cylindrical drum and a collection tray.

Measuring temperature and time with a horoku, a frying pan and a home roaster, and how far household equipment takes you.

03Members only

Horoku, frying pan, home roaster: where they differ

Sand roasting, a rotating drum, far-infrared heat: the names do not sit on the same level. Split into the vessel, the way heat travels and the contact with flame, the accounts published by tea merchants and machine makers become readable.

One packet says sand-roasted; the one beside it says far-infrared. It is tempting to ask which way each tea was roasted, but the two are not necessarily different methods. Some sand roasting runs on far-infrared heat from warmed stones.

What follows unpicks the names into three layers, then looks at the work of the machines: warm stones, a turning drum, air blown upward.

Words on three layers

In the roasting room the machines turn with a low hum. Sand roasting, direct fire and far-infrared heat are not words on the same layer.

In a kitchen, the shape of a pan and the burner under it are thought of separately. A roaster's description likewise mixes the vessel that holds the tea, the way heat is delivered, and the contact with the flame. A rotating drum names the vessel and its motion, far-infrared names the delivery of heat, and direct fire names contact with the flame. So they are not three options to pick one from, and some machines use more than one.

The name alone does not settle the taste. The record supports only a way to unpick the words. After the layers comes sand roasting, which passes heat from warmed stones.

The soft heat of warmed stones

In the roasting pan, warmed stones give a faint rattle. Sand roasting is a way of passing heat through stone.

One tea shop presents sand roasting as a traditional method using far-infrared heat from warmed stones. Its aim is to fire the tea evenly and bring out sweetness without scorching. Another shop, firing blended tea again at a higher heat, uses both a sand roaster and an infrared firing machine. One shop does not always mean one method.

Every account quoted is one the maker published itself. Their temperatures and times are not set out on common terms, and the same method name yields different finishes from shop to shop. That is as far as the record goes. After the stones comes the inside of a turning drum.

The four sections that remain cover leaf tumbling in a turning drum, rising hot air and direct fire, and why a machine's name alone does not settle the taste. Shop and machine names close the piece.

The rest of this article is for members.

Membership is available in Japanese. It takes an email address and a password, and it is free.

Open the Japanese membership page

Updated 17 October 2026This section on its own page

05Members only

If you try it at home: safety, and when to stop

Roasting tea at home starts with choosing the tool: a horoku or a frying pan. The horoku is preheated and the leaf rolled in it; the frying pan dries the tea, then roasts it. Either way, cooling it down is part of the job.

An illustration of a hand gripping a handle through a cloth and moving a horoku filled with tea over a small flame.

An unglazed horoku sits on the kitchen hob. Its handle is a hollow tube, and it is lighter in the hand than it looks. A day with the horoku and a day with the frying pan bring the heat in differently.

What follows are two methods published by tea sellers, the horoku and the frying pan, taken through in order up to the point where the leaf has cooled.

A horoku or a frying pan

Held over the flame, the clay base of the horoku warms slowly. Roasting at home comes down to two ways: the horoku or the frying pan.

A horoku is held by its handle with its contents over the flame. To roast evenly, it is swung from the wrist so the contents roll. With a frying pan, the tea is dried over medium heat, cooled, then roasted over high heat.

Choose one and follow it to the end. A horoku is not set down and left, so the grip and the swing are best found before the leaf goes in. After the tools come the horoku's four steps.

Four steps with the horoku

As the horoku heats, a faint warmth reaches the palm. Its method has four steps, and the end is judged by smoke and the leaf's colour, not by the clock.

In one tea farm's method, the horoku is first warmed over medium heat for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Then 5 to 10 grams of leaf go in and are kept moving so they do not scorch. When smoke appears, the finish is near. At the roast you like, the leaf is tipped out through the hollow handle.

The preheating time is not the roasting time. Tools and flames differ from kitchen to kitchen, so this is not a setting to carry over unchanged. The record supports only the guide figures for this horoku method. After the horoku comes the frying pan's two stages.

The three sections that remain give the pan method of drying, cooling, then roasting, and why the job ends only once the leaf has cooled, with a word on tea that roasting cannot rescue. The source shop closes the piece.

The rest of this article is for members.

Membership is available in Japanese. It takes an email address and a password, and it is free.

Open the Japanese membership page

Updated 17 October 2026This section on its own page

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